Penitensya: A Tourist's Experience

In the province of Pampanga in the Philippines, flagellation (hurting onceself for religious discipline or public penance)has been annually practiced especially during the holyweek season. In here, flagellants triy to re-create the passion of Christ.

In the western world it is almost unheard that people go to this extent to cleanse and purify themselves for the Glory of God. A flagellant I was told is vowed to perform this ritual annually for 6 years and then is passed on to another member of the family. In the event that a flagellant is unable to fulfil his vow, if he goes to work abroad for instance, a close male relative will assume the burden of responsibility. Throughout this process, familial ties are strengthened, particularly in times of crisis, such as acute illness, or if a conflict between kin is resolved, or a debt of gratitude (utang na loob) repaid.

What is striking in this experience is the presence of the fiesta atmosphere among the crowd looking at the flagellant like a circus freakshow. Street vendors selling liquor proliferate the place including peddlers letting children bet on some gambling games. It adds to the confusion as to how Holyweek should be experienced: to be solemn or to be jubilant